Day 4, 5, 6: Gweru

My long awaited return to Gweru finally arrived and I was really excited. The first thing we did was to stop at the gas station I would always go to for an ice cream. We had planned to go straight to Antelope Park to check into our accommodation, but we were right at the polytechnic college where I used to live, and I was too excited to wait, so we stopped by. It happened to be a public holiday the day we arrived in town, which worked out to our distinct advantage – it hadn’t occurred to me that since students are currently on summer holiday, normally no one would be around. The kitchen and dining hall where I used to have my meals was full of uniformed officials and other ZANU-PF supporters – I hesitated and Alexio had to remind me that I wasn’t doing anything wrong and we should still go in. The kitchen was full and the staff were busy, but the looks on peoples faces when they realized that I was standing there was priceless!! I had the good fortune of being able to see even one of the staff members who no longer works there, as he had been called in to help out with the big event. We knocked on some doors, but a few of the people I hoped to see were unfortunately not around. We had planned to spend another few days in Gweru at the end of our trip, so we resolved to try again then. Alexio laughed and said I must be a local celebrity because as we walked passed a bus that was full of celebrators leaving the polytechnic, someone was yelling out my name. I went to the bus to say hi, but still have no idea who the person was. They knew my name and asked me about Farai so they must really have known me! I wish the bus hadn’t been so packed so I might have been able to figure out who it was (I think it was possibly one of my former co-workers kids)

The days in Gweru were quite busy running around, sorting out money, trying to track down people. I finally met Alexio’s mom and grandma – they are very nice – and see the house Alexio grew up in. I also got to meet my friend Tau’s 6 month old son, see a friend also named Heather, and visited my old work – MASO. I almost cried I was so happy to see my old colleagues (who were really more like friends). I had sent some emails warning people that I would be visiting, but I think I still caught some of them by surprise. One of the programmes officers spotted me as we pulled in and almost knocked me over when we collided in hugs – it was great. Only about half the people I wanted to see were around because 1) the government banned all NGOs from field visits during the elections (and only recently lifted them), so there hasn’t been much work to do, and 2) they have been experiencing crazy power cuts – when I visited, they hadn’t had any power for two weeks! How are you supposed to get any work done if you can’t even turn on your computer! Even though some of the people I would have really liked to visit with were taking the opportunity to use some of their vacation days, it was so nice to be back.
We stayed at a great place called Antelope Park, which is about 15kms from town. We stayed in a really great “River Tent” which was a permanent walk-in tent, complete with ensuite bathroom. The food was great and they have lots of different activities to do. They are known for their lion program, and at night we could hear the roars of the 30+ lions that they are keeping (in captivity). When I lived in Gweru, Keith and I tried twice to go and experience their famous Walk with Lions – we were never successful, but I am pleased to say that I have now done it and it was worth the wait! Alexio and I walked with two lions, one female and one male, who were almost 18 months old. They were both playful and lazy. At first we were a bit hesitant, but we were with guides and lion handlers, so eventually got quite close. Alexio can now even say he’s pulled a lion’s tail! Before embarking, we were given a short safety briefing explaining that since they are still cubs and have been raised there, they see their handlers as dominant members of their pride. We all walked in a pack, as they would in a pride, which kept us safe – if you wandered off you could be seen as ill or weak and be an easy target. We were given a stick, and told that if they came at us, to point the stick at them and say “NO”. How’s that for feeling protected from a wild animal! (It actually worked though – one of the lions kept trying to rub up on my side and would go away when Alexio did the stick/“NO” combination – I only wish the same would work with Nali our devil cat). The whole thing lasted about 90 minutes and was great.

The Gweru Heathers

Tau's son Timmy